The International cutting school's system of cutting by Gibson L

Author:Gibson, L. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring, International cutting schools
Publisher: Chicago, Ill. H.G. Adair
Published: 1913-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

Diagram 38 — Sleeves

COATS

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Diagram 39 — Overcoat Sleeve

Diagram 40 — Box Undersleeve

Diagram 41 — Raglan Coat with Sleeve

Diagram 42 — Raglan Sleeve

§ 3

COATS PART THREE

Raglan Coat

Diagram 41

7S 30. The Raglan Coat is drafted the same as other Overcoats, either the Box or Chesterfield effect, as desired.

79 To prepare for the sleeves, proceed as follows;

80 The front notch is always 94 i"ch up from the breast

line.

81 The back notch is always on line F, for drafting pur-

poses.

82 Draw a straight Hue from S to Y, or the inside run

of the armhole.

83 Square out from this line from 26 to X.

84 26 to 27 is l^i inches.

85 Shape from S through 27 to Y. See diagram.

86 Draw a line from V to the front of armhole.

87 Square by this line from 28 to point 1.

88 28 to 29 is 1>4 inches.

89 Shape from V through 29 to the notch.

90 Move the seam down in the gorge Jj inch or more from V and re-shape to 29.

91 The shaded part represents the cut-off.

92 31. Measure for Sleeve.—From front notch over

the shoulder through point 1 to the back notch, for the upper sleeve:

93 10^ inches for a 36 breast Overcoat.

94 32. Measure under sleeve from front notch under

the arm to back notch, including seams:

95 9y2 inches for a 36 breast Overcoat.

96 In measuring armhole for sleeve always follow the

edge of the pattern, not including fullness or drapery.

97 If a Box Coat, draft imder sleeve as shown in "Box

Under Sleeve."

98 Measure the distance from the back notch in a

straight line to S— 7}i inches.

99 Measure the distance from the front notch in a

straight line to V—10J4 inches.

Raglan Sleeve Diagram 41

To Draft. Upper sleeve, 10^ inches. Under sleeve, 9j^ inches. Depth of scye, B to F, 5^ inches. Front length, 10^ inches. Back length, 7;4 inches. Inside length, 18^4 inches.

100 Diagram Represents the sleeve without any shoulder

seam, the position as drafted in the coat and the principle on which it is based, namely: To obtain the required length over the shoulder.

101 The broken lines represent the pieces as cut off from

the coat and placed in position to get the length; or, in other words, the width across the shoulder from V to Z, less two seams. This style of sleeve is not used much at present, because it is nearly impossible to get the square shoulder effect desired at the present date.

Diagram 42

1U2 34. Represents the same sleeve drafted separately.

103 iMnish the Raglan sleeve the same as an ordinary

Overcoat sleeve; then proceed as follows:

104 Extend the lines A and G upwards to 4 and 3.

105 Apply the back length, 7% inches, from G to 3 and

sweep forward to 5.

106 3 to 7 is 2 inches; draw a line from 7 to G.

107 Apply the front length, 10^4 inches, and l^^ inches

(11/2), from C to 4 and sweep back to 5.

108 4 to 8 is 2 inches.

109 Square up from N through 5 to 6.

110 In normal N is half way between B and G line.

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